Sara d'Amato

The typical impression of the ‘Italian’ involves a passionate, exuberant individual with a strong desire for sensual pleasures. This usually includes fervor for great food, lively company and of course, delicious wine. However oversimplified this may sound, it is more often the case than not when it comes to wine producers. It is nearly impossible not to be utterly charmed and absolutely enthralled when listening to such individuals speak about their latest offerings. I was reminded of this at a recent tasting hosted by Sandro Bottega, well-known for his impressive bottle designs, Grappa, and Prosecco, and who perfectly exemplifies the classic Italian virtues.

He is among a great number of producers who make a particular attempt to appeal to women in Italy and abroad. With the realization that 57% of wine purchasing decisions in North American are made by women, a recent shift in marketing has come about to increasingly appeal to this large segment of the wine-buying public. Luckily, Italian producers have a long tradition of reveling in the feminine characteristics to wine, and have tapped into the seductive power and allure of wine to attract women. In order to decide, as a woman, if you allow yourself to be swept away by the romance of it all, it is worth exploring these passionate offerings and perhaps they will lead to the unleashing of your inner Italian spirit.

Bottega Petalo Il Vino Dell’ Amore, Italy, $13.05

Oozing with lush, floral aromatics and sweet peach nectar, this lightly fizzy Rose from Bottega has wide, uncomplicated appeal. Perfect for a Sunday brunch or served with a berry tart.

Inama Vin Soave Classico 2009, DOC, Veneto, Italy, $17.95

As the name suggests, this Soave comes the classic or original delineation of the region before it expanded. The wines from this central spot are thought to be of greater quality than the more simplistic Soave appellation. This example has great personality and exceptional refinement, like the Jackie O of Italian white wines.

Ca Del Baio Asili Barbaresco 2007, DOCG, Piedmont, Italy, $29.95

Barbaresco, as opposed to the neighboring, more masculine Barolo, has long thought to have great feminine character but is not short on heady appeal. Aromatic, silky and with plenty of complex intrigue, this great wine of northern Italy is sure to turn heads.

Capanna Brunello Di Montalcino 2006, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy, $47.95

Brunello’s personality is also though to have feminine properties especially in terms of its sass and alluring nature. Brunello is a special clone of the prolific Tuscan variety of Sangiovese and is still widely thought of as the wine of the elite and the sophisticates.

For a shopping list of wines available at your nearest LCBO, click here.

Julian Hitner

For most wine lovers, and especially collectors, the urge to purchase wines based on the scores they receive—such as from yours truly—sometimes has a tendency to eclipse personal tastes. I’ll put it another way. Say you, as a collector, are interested in buying a case of premium Napa Cabernet, and you like to follow the scores of a particular wine critic. You go the store and spot a premium Napa Cabernet you have tasted (i.e. from another vintage) in the past, one that you very much enjoyed. But still, you take out your smartphone just to check how your favourite critic rated it. To your surprise, the critic awarded it a low score. But you personally liked what you’d tasted from this specific winery in the past. What do you do? Do you still buy the wine, or do you select something else?

An unending quandary with wine evaluation. We all have different opinions, from amateur wine lovers and serious collectors to professional wine instructors and their more critique-oriented counterparts. But whose opinion is the right one? In the above scenario, is the critics’ greater than the collector? Hard to tell. Personally, I have most often deferred to the competency of the critic, assuming he or she knows how to taste wine, for there are a host of ‘critics’ who haven’t the slightest clue. A growing concern with Internet blogs and smartphone apps. Everyone’s a critic, and most of them are not very competent, it seems.

But collectors tend to be of a different breed when compared to the more causal wine shopper. Chances are, they’ve tasted many fine wines in their time, and have developed a reasonable idea as to which wines suit their palate and which ones do not. That is why, in the scenario mentioned above, a low score from a wine critic—even a seasoned professional—should not prevent the collector from purchasing a case of a specific premium Napa Cabernet. Granted, it might be wise to purchase just a single bottle before committing to an entire box; but the argument still stands. In this situation, what need is there of a professional critic, let alone an incompetent one, if the collector is comfortable with what he or she wants?

And no, I’m not trying to put my self out of business. But I do strongly believe in the notion of flexibility when it comes to collectors’ adherence of the opinions of experienced wine commentators. Sometimes, a low score should not simply mean, “don’t buy this wine.” Alternatively, it can simply mean, “not to my taste,” or “overpriced for its type.” Of course, I am not including wines that I have scored low on account of a specific fault I might have detected when tasting it. Those types of wines I would advise collectors to never buy! So there, I might be dictating tastes, but at least I’m aware that they’re one in seven billion … and counting.

Click here for a few gems from the 12 November 2011 Vintages Release and other items

The new vintages of these long-standing favourites in the LCBO are more appealing than ever. Find these classics to stock up on via winealign.com/margaretspicks.

Oyster Bay Chardonnay 2010
LCBO No. 326728; $18.95
This expressive white from New Zealand has an attractive toasty oak bouquet from seasoned French barriques. On the palate, the oak is balanced nicely with tangy fruit and just the right amount of acidity. Medium bodied and fruit forward with a creamy texture, it’s distinctive and elegant — good with poultry, cheesy pastas, black cod.

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011
LCBO No. 304469; $29.95
This iconic sauvignon blanc was sourced from four sub-regions of the Wairau Valley in New Zealand. Medium-full bodied, it’s a connoisseur’s style of white with layers, complexity and subtleties. There’s a refreshing acidity, lots of ripe peach and other stone fruit character. Lush, succulent but not over the top, it intrigues to the last drop.

Negrar Amarone della Valpollicella Classico 2007
LCBO No. 44784; $29.95
This Italian red from Veneto suffered a setback when some crook sold poor knock-offs of the previous vintage. You can buy the authentic, always delicious version at a $5 reduction until Nov. 5. Robust, velvety, quite full bodied, it’s a solid, well made, hearty and satisfying wine. Perfect for meats, braised dishes and strong cheeses.

John Szabo, MS

Are Unknown Unknowns Robbing Your Wine Enjoyment? Or Skip to the Smart Buys if you are enjoying wine just fine, thank you.

This week’s release themes are Sonoma and “Party” wines. The latter is pretty much the underlying theme every release as far as I’m concerned (never drink a wine that you wouldn’t bring to a party), while the former, Sonoma, sees a range of wines that are solid but not outstanding. So I’ve opted instead to delve a little into the world of unknown unknowns and focus on some less common wines worth seeking out.

Donald Rumsfled

NATO HQ, Brussels, June 6, 2002, Press Conference by U.S. Secretary of Defense Donald Rumsfeld: “There are known unknowns. That is to say, there are things we now know we don’t know. But there are also unknown unknowns.  These are the things we do not know we don’t know.”

Rumsfeld took a lot of flack for that seemingly absurd response to a journalist’s question regarding terrorism and WMDs. But maybe he is smarter than we think. Or at least maybe he accidentally hit on one of the great truths that shape our lives: ignorance. I’m talking about ignorance in the true sense of the word, that is, not knowing, or unawareness. How limited are we in our world experience, in our wine enjoyment by what we don’t know?

There’s a scientific-sounding name for the impact of unknown unknowns: it’s called the Dunning-Kruger Effect, after David Dunning, a Cornell professor of social psychology and his graduate student Justin Kruger. One day in 1996 Dunning had a flash of insight while reading the account of would-be bank robber McArthur Wheeler. Wheeler, apparently, believed that rubbing lemon juice on his face would render him unrecognizable on security cameras. So he walked into two Pittsburg banks in broad daylight wielding a gun and demanded money from the teller. At 5’6” and 270 pounds, he was not a tough character to pick out of a line up; he was arrested less than an hour after the surveillance photos of him were posted on the 11 o’clock news. Is it possible to be that stupid?

Dunning began to wonder if maybe some people might be too stupid to even know how stupid they are. So along with his graduate student they designed some experiments to test the hypothesis, and in 1999 published their results in the paper entitled, “Unskilled and Unaware of It: How Difficulties of Recognizing One’s Own Incompetence Lead to Inflated Self-assessments”. [1] The capacity of our incompetence to mask our ability to recognize our incompetence is now known as the Dunning-Kruger Effect. I see this all too frequently in the wine world: a nighttime wine course at a community college and you’ve got it all figured out. The folks who really do have a grasp on wine are the first to tell you how little they know.

The wisdom of knowing you haven’t really figured it all out is not exactly groundbreaking stuff; after all, Socrates recognized 2500 years ago that the only true wisdom is to know that you know nothing. But it did get me thinking about how ignorance also shapes consumer habits in general, and wine drinking in particular. How much does what you don’t know about wine inform your wine buying choices? Known things are comfortable, unknown things are risky, even scary. People invariably gravitate to what they know out of fear and uncertainty.

Among the billions of things I don’t know, like the exact distance to the moon or why you drive on a parkway and park on a driveway, there are at least multiple thousands of things I don’t know about the world of wine. What are the 2008 Barolos like? How did Mendoza fair in 2011? Who are the leading producers in Brazil and Uruguay? What is the best match for deep-fried crickets? (I could make an educated guess.) These are known unknowns, and knowing gives me at least the possibility of finding the answers, it’s just a matter of ‘research’. But what about the things in the world of wine that I don’t even know that I don’t know? How different would my wine enjoyment be if I knew more about the unknown unknowns?

Do you reach for the same brand each time you step into the LCBO? Do you stick mainly to the grapes and places with which you are familiar? Did you know that excellent wine is made in Georgia and Japan, and not so excellent wine in Belgium and the Netherlands? How about the black grape variety called mavrotragano from Santorini: did you know that you don’t know how tasty it can be?

As Dunning wrote in correspondence with Errol Morris of the New York Times in an article entitled: The Anosognosic’s Dilemma: Something’s Wrong but You’ll Never Know What It Is [2] “Put simply, people tend to do what they know and fail to do that which they have no conception of.  In that way, ignorance profoundly channels the course we take in life.  And unknown unknowns constitute a grand swath of everybody’s field of ignorance.”

Yes, I had to look up anosognosic as well. It means “a condition in which a person who suffers from a disability seems unaware of or denies the existence of his or her disability”. [3] Even if not neurologically, we’re all psychologically anosognomatic in one way or another. But knowing that is half the battle, and this little bit of surface research inspired by the NYT article just reminded me of how much there is I know that I don’t know, and how much there is that I don’t know that I don’t know.

I was further inspired to delve deeper into the world of unknown wine while reading Wine Spectator columnist Matt Kramer’s recent piece on why he no longer buys expensive wines. For Kramer, as for me and countless other wine lovers, a good part of the enjoyment comes from the thrill of surprise. With stratospherically priced wines, there is little surprise left – most are boringly predictable: “The majority of the world’s most interesting wines now come from ‘unknown’, or at least unheralded, locales.”. It’s true: while the classic regions remain classic for good reason, there’s more excitement and surprise to be found in the unknown.

So I may buy Volvo after Volvo for the reassurance of known qualities and lack of surprise, but wine buying, at least some of the time, should fall in the category of “acceptably risky” and promiscuous consumer behavior. Otherwise you’ll never know what you’re missing.

Less-Known Smart Buys

In the spirit of discovery and narrowing the field of unknowns, this week’s smart buys are mostly less-known grapes, regions, producers or unusual wine styles. One of the latter is the 2009 INAMA VIN SOAVE CLASSICO DOC $17.95. This is an idiosyncratic example of Soave, a wine with tons of character and depth including palpable salty-minerality, but some slightly oxidative and other-than-fruit notes might send some drinkers running to the nearest industrial chardonnay. I love the quirky side of this wine, made with pure, honest intentions by an artisan, Stefano Inama. Working with old vines and top sites is the key to top garganega, according to Inama, along with low yields, and minimalist winemaking. This is all of that, and more. Nature is not perfect and symmetrical, so why should wine, a product of nature, be any different?

Speaking of chardonnay, if you’re running that way, might as well save yourself a few dollars and pick up the shockingly good value 2009 BOYAR ESTATES BLUERIDGE XR CHARDONNAY, Bulgaria $11.95. Now, this may not set the world on fire, but it’s surely as good as a boatload of $15-$20 chardonnay, delivering easy-drinking pleasure with an extra measure of class for a very fair, unknown region type of price.

If Bordeaux’s your passion but you’re tired of the over-inflated prices of the name-brand appellations, take refuge in the value afforded by the region’s less-celebrated backwaters. The 2009 CHÂTEAU HAUCHAT AC Fronsac $14.95 has a fine mix of red and black berry fruit, integrated wood, sappy, fleshy fruit extract, excellent complexity, balance, depth and long finish, especially at this price.

If full-bodied, heady, amarone-style wines make your taste buds tingle, look to spend about half the money for similar depth in the 2004 CESCA VICENT LO PIOT DOCa Priorat $25.95 . It’s an over the top though not atypical Priorat (in Catalonia’s hinterland), with a whopping 15% alcohol and flavours firmly in the baked/raisined/dried berry (i.e. amarone) spectrum. Yet striking minerality born from the region’s schistous soils emerges on the finish, making this a wine with it’s own unique sense of place.

Also off the beaten path but worth a look for fans of new world-style cabernet seeking new horizons is the 2006 LENTO LAMEZIA RISERVA DOC $19.95. Calabria rarely figures on anyone’s fine wine map for a myriad of reasons, least of which is the capacity to produce interesting, and even excellent wines, as one stumbles across from time to time. This is made from a southern Italian stew of magliocco, greco nero and nerello calabrese (did you know these grapes even existed?), delivering a compellingly spicy, earthy, savoury, ripe black fruit flavoured wine, reminiscent of warm climate cabernet sauvignon.

See all of this week’s unknown smart buys here, and happy discoveries!

From the October 29th Vintages release:

Top Ten Smart Buys
All Reviews

Cheers,

John Szabo, Master Sommelier

Article References:
1. Justin Kruger and David Dunning, “Unskilled and Unaware of It: How Difficulties of Recognizing One’s Own Incompetence Lead to Inflated Self-assessments,” Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 1999, vol. 77, no. 6, pp. 1121-1134.
2. http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/06/20/the-anosognosics-dilemma-1/#ftn3
3. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anosognosia

Steve Thurlow

There are five new wines on the Top 50 this month as a result of recently tasted wines, price changes, new additions to the LCBO’s selection and new vintages of existing listings. The Top 50 list features the wines commonly referred to as General List and Vintages Essentials.  I constantly taste the wines at the LCBO to keep this report up to date. You can easily find my Top 50 Value Wines from the WineAlign main menu. Click on Wine => Top 50 Value Wines to be taken directly to the list.

To be included in the Top 50 for value a wine must be inexpensive while also having a high score, indicating high quality. We use a mathematical model to make the Top 50 selections from the wines in our database.

Every wine is linked to WineAlign where you can read more, discover pricing discounts, check out inventory and compile lists for shopping at your favourite store. Never again should you be faced with a store full of wine with little idea of what to pick for best value.In addition to the great value wines below, please check out the preview for season two of our video series.  We’ll be releasing new episodes from season two: “The Tournament” through-out the fall.

Additions to My Top 50

I have recently tasted some new vintages of wines which resulted in four wines joining my Top 50 list. Most of the wines on this list come from just a few regions of the world that are today supplying the stores in Ontario with the best value wines.
Portugal  is the origin of three of the Top 50 wines. Known for centuries as the source of fortified sweet red wines known as Port, it also produces many excellent dry red wines from the same blend of grapes that are used for port.Vila Regia 2009, Douro Valley $7.95 is a pure well structured red with a nose of blueberry and black cherry fruit. It is midweight with bright berry fruit and fresh acidity with a smooth texture leading to a finish where some firm tannin shows through, though the fruit persists well. Very good length. Try with a steak.

Ten of the wines on the list come from Argentina, which is a major world producer of wines, mainly red, and is renowned for the malbec grape. Most of Argentina’s wines come from the Mendoza region which is the other side of the Andes from the vineyards in Chile and around 1000km from the Atlantic Ocean and the capital Buenos Aires. The Argentine vineyards are established in a desert area in the Andean foothills and depend upon irrigation water from the Andes. San Juan is about 2 hours drive across the desert north of Mendoza. Another new entrant to the list comes from here.

Callia Alta Malbec 2010, San Juan $9.95 is a very drinkable malbec that is finely balanced with ample ripe fruit and is thankfully not as jammy as are many in the genre. Expect aromas of blackberry, with subtle oak spice plus some herbal and dark chocolate notes. Mid-weight smooth and juicy with spicy fruit and good length. Try with grilled meats.

Though best known for malbec, Argentina is also producing excellent wines from cabernet sauvignon and syrah, like the third new entrant to the list. Trivento Tribu Syrah 2010, Mendoza $7.60 has a lot of flavour for a wine at this price. It shows ripe fruit yet is balanced by soft tannin and juicy acidity and has very good length with the fruit persisting well. The nose is a bit slender with some blackberry fruit with tobacco notes. Try with meaty pasta sauces, pizza or roast meats. This wine has unfortunately been discontinued at LCBO hence its excellent price. Over 4000 bottles remain, so take advantage while inventory lasts.

Southern Italy is the source of 11 wines in the Top 50. They come from three regions Sicily, Puglia and Abruzzo. Five of them, including the fourth entrant to the list come from one winery, Farnese; a remarkable achievement for this producer from Abruzzo.

Farnese Daunia Sangiovese 2010, Abruzzo $7.40 is very similar to previous vintages. It is fruity, clean and is a great buy to enjoy with everyday meals. The nose shows mild black and red berry fruit with a spicy note and some earthy complexity. It is medium to full bodied and fairly simple on the palate with the balanced ripe fruit flowing though to the finish. Very good length with a dry finish.

Limited Time Offers (LTO)

Every month about 100 products at the LCBO go on sale for four weeks. As a consequence of this temporary price reduction, one wine has joined the Top 50.

Fuzion Alta Malbec Reserva 2009, Mendoza $8.95 is made 100% from malbec. It is a  structured, tannin balanced wine with a good depth of flavour at a great price. Expect blackberry fruit with dark chocolate notes mild oak spice and a hint of prune. Medium-full bodied with good length.  You have until November 6, 2011 to take advantage of this price reduction, though at $9.95 it will still be a good deal.

Please click here for a complete list of the Top 50 Value Wines at your local LCBO. The Top 50 changes all the time, so remember to check before shopping. I will be back next month with more news on value arrivals to Essentials and the LCBO.

Cheers!

Steve Thurlow

Sara d'Amato

Dark as the Night

Montes Limited Selection Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenère 2010, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $14.95

Carmenere is a deeply coloured, blood-red tinged wine that most definitely has spook value especially if you are playing the part of the blood sucking vampire. Traditionally, Carmenere was used as a blending grape in Bordeaux and would add beautiful dark hues to the wine, not to mention an elegant savory character. Nowadays, it is primarily planted and grown in Chile where it was previously mistaken for Merlot and now takes center stage in a solo role.  This more traditional blend is supple, enticing and undeniably approachable — be wary of its mysterious powers of intoxication!

Something Sweet

While the kiddos are busy canvasing for sweets, don’t we deserve to be rewarded too for all of our efforts at keeping up house and home? For all those who have sweet teeth rivaling those of the younger generation, try this tense, eerily off-dry, homegrown brew from Henry Of Pelham Reserve Off Dry Riesling 2008, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, $15.95. The ghostly white and transparent colour of this wine proves even more sinister on the palate with tense, nervy, and one might say ‘spine-tingling’ flavours and texture. An intensely high acid varietal, this version is balanced by just the right amount of sweetness to give it that pleasurable, absolutely delicious, goose bump-inducing character. And not to worry, the acidity will take care of the cavity-engendering sweetness.

A Horrifyingly Good Pinot

Amity Pinot Noir 2007, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA, $20.95

Although not produced anywhere near the scene of the gruesome and highly disputed Amityville horror house, the Amity Hills Pinot Noir is terrifyingly good juice. The Pinot Noir varietal, known as the “heartbreak grape,” with its troublesome and unwieldy character, has plagued winemakers for centuries – one might refer to it as having a “possessed” nature, as it refuses to be managed and is susceptible to all sorts of spooky-looking, gnarly rots and mold.  Being able to produce a great Pinot Noir depends just as much on the quality of the vineyard as it does on the winemaker’s prowess, resulting in some of the world’s most hauntingly expressive and complex wines.

Julian Hitner

Constant improvement:  Outside of Brunello di Montalcino and (perhaps) Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, the Chianti Classico zone is nowadays home to some of the greatest Sangiovese-based wines in the world. Awarded its own DOC between Florence and Siena in 1966 (promoted to DOCG status in 1984), the finest examples of Chianti Classico have undergone nothing short of a colossal leap in quality over the past dozen or so years, becoming an increasingly viable source for even the most discriminating of collectors.

Fontodi Chianti Classico - DOCG Tuscany, Italy

Indeed, the advancements have been incredible. Compared to fifteen years ago, today’s Chianti Classicos are far better suited to the modern palate: fresher, rounder, and oftentimes just as complex, with better clones of Sangiovese being planted to full advantage on the famous galestro soils (schist-based, or shaly clay) and alberese (limestone-based) deposits found throughout much of Tuscany. Together with state-of-the-art winemaking facilities and an impassioned drive to craft the best wines possible, the finest bottlings of Chianti Classico have emerged, quite legitimately, as some of the greatest, most terroir-driven wines of Italy.

Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2004

The blend for Chianti Classico is fairly simple. Producers are permitted to use 80-100% Sangiovese (80% being the proscribed minimum), along with up to 20% international varietals, with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot being the most common. Even so, some producers still prefer using permitted local varietals in lieu of French ones: Canaiolo or Colorino. Yields in the vineyard may not exceed 52.5 hl/ha, though the best producers will often harvest far lower than this. The wine must be aged for at least 7 months in oak and may not be released to the public before at least 1 October the year following the vintage.

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 2004

Chianti Classico Riserva, on the other hand, requires longer aging: 2 years in oak and at least 3 months in bottle. The type of oak used is decided by the producer, with some preferring Slavonian oak for a more ‘traditional’ style, while others may opt for French oak for a more modern, fuller, and slightly less austere type of wine.

Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva

Still, serious collectors should remember that not all Chianti Classicos are created equal. Despite enormous improvements in quality over the past fifteen or so years, there are still plenty of wines that simply do not measure up to the standards set by the finest estates, such as the labels shown in this column. At their best, a first-rate Chianti Classico ought to revel in beautiful, slightly rustic aromas of dark wild cherries and plums, cedar, undergrowth, light herbs, and spice; with more modern examples boasting additional scents of subtle black cherries, vanillin, and mild (never dominant) toasted oak.

Just as important, the best Chianti Classicos should have little trouble aging for well over ten years; though it is generally advisable to drink up between four and six years, especially when the wine hails from only a moderate vintage—as of late, I have begun drinking ’06 with absolute pleasure. Once again, it goes without saying that collectors should stick with the best producers. And yet, at the rate that overall quality keeps on improving, we can all trust to have many more choices over the next several years.

Click here for a few gems from the 15 October 2011 Vintages Release and other items

David Lawrason

Tuscany’s Brunello and Maremma  - Tuscany shares the spotlight with Piedmont on this release, and Vintages has done a good job assembling a fine cross section of very good to excellent wines from both Italian regions. Tuscany in particular has been front of mind lately, partially because of an article on the region coming up in Toronto Life’s November issue; but also because of two recent portfolio tastings by agents who import a lot of Italian wine.  Also, in the back of mind has been the realization that a number of good Brunellos have come through Vintages in recent months. Conduct a WineAlign Find Wine search on Brunello and you will see 16 currently in stock with 90 point or better ratings.

Brunello di Montalcino is Tuscany’s classic kingpin –  usually a rich, stately red made 100% from a small berried sangiovese clone simply called brunello. It is best drunk after a few years in bottle. Indeed its regulations require that basic Brunello not be released for 50 months after harvest, with “Riserva” and year later.  This accounts for 2006 being the latest vintage on the shelf, with many 2005s also available. This gives us the opportunity to drink properly matured, smooth and rich reds right off the shelf, and I am thoroughly enjoying that change of pace. SAN FELICE CAMPOGIOVANNI 2005 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ($44.95) is another very fine example coming on October 15.  And if you want to buy directly from agents I suggest you go to the www.StemWineGroup.com to seek out stunning Brunellos from Siro Pacenti, Collemattoni and Valdicava. At www.ProfileWineGroup.com look for Brunellos and other Tuscan wines from Grevepesa, Poggio San Polo and Terrebianca. (Individual reviews are not on WineAlign as they were tasted in the less controlled and consistent setting of a trade show).

The other Tuscan region to ping my radar in recent weeks is Maremma. The mapping gets a bit confusing here with Maremma being a relatively new and large region of southern Tuscan, including the coast. There are many individual appellations (like Bolgheri and Morellino di Scansano) within Maremma, but on a wine label Maremma denotes the broader regional IGT appellation. More importantly, this is the land of bright, modern, fruit driven reds more likely than not containing cabernet, merlot and perhaps syrah, with our without sangiovese involved. The area’s warmer climate creates quite soft, plush style that tilts toward California. And the kicker is that many are less expensive than more classic Tuscans or Californians. POGGIO VERRANO 2005 CHANCE, Maremma IGT, is fine example at $33.95. And if you are checking out Stem Wine Group for their Brunellos, inquire about Tenuta Monteti 2007 Caburnio at $20, and a terrific Morellino di Scansano called Heba, from La Fattoria Di Magliano – more expensive at about $25.

95 Point Reds
There are three reds on this release that I have pegged at 95 points, which for me is the threshold to “outstanding” – wines that go beyond purity, precision and sense of place into the realm of real sensual excitement. They make me gasp, or curse (in a good way) or evoke some kind of emotional response. (One response is usually frustration because they are very expensive). Anyway, I got very excited three times with this release.

One is again from Tuscany, and an iconic super-Tuscan made from merlot and sangiovese grown in the Montalcino region.  Luce is mostly famous for being one of the first super-Tuscans, and for being a joint venture between Mondavi and Frescobaldi, although now wholly owned by the latter.  LUCE DELLA VITE 2008 LUCE ($99.95) is not as immediately impressive as the two below, but nor is it ready to drink. What I find outstanding is the great sense of tension, finely woven complexity and refinement that is so emblematic of the very best Tuscan reds. I would love to open a few bottles of this toward 2020.

The finest wine, as expressed through complexity, integration and depth is CHÂTEAU TROPLONG MONDOT 2007 Saint-Émilion in Bordeaux, at $115.00. This property is golden at the moment, having being elevated to 1er Grand Cru Classe status in the most recent re-calibration of St. Emilion. I was at the property last year to witness for myself the care and detail that has gone into the vineyards and winery (located in the shadow of St. Emilion’s landmark water tower), and I am not at all surprised to see such a stylish wine emerge. Even better, it’s from an approachable vintage that makes it easy to enjoy now.

The most jaw-droppingly powerful 95-pointer is TWO HANDS SOPHIE’S GARDEN 2008 SHIRAZ, a single vineyard wine from the slightly cooler Padthaway region of South Australia. It is a whopper, with 16% alcohol, but this barely registers amid the avalanche of fruit. And despite 16 months in French barrels, that same amazing fruit all but buries the oak too.  And it’s a bargain actually at $46.00.

Le Clos Jordanne 2009 Pinots
Ontario pinot noir fans have been awaiting the release of the five 2009 vineyard bottlings from Le Clos Jordanne, founded as a Franco-Canuck joint venture to produce great Burgundy inspired pinot and chardonnay from organically tended, dense planted, low yield sites on Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench near Jordan. The 2009 vintage was long, cool and dry – a very good pinot year. I was able to taste the entire range side by side at a media event, and found the wines to be very refined, nuanced and quite tart due to the acidity of the year.  I also found that tasting rushed and distracting so I was not ready to rate the wines. LE CLOS JORDANNE 2009 LE CLOS JORDANNE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR ($45) arrives on this release however, and I have had a couple of opportunities to sample. It is quite fine indeed with excellent length and some palate weight and richness to cover off the acidity. It needs about three years in the cellar.

Argentina’s Big Guns
Collectors of big reds can also dabble in Argentina with the release of several more expensive malbecs, cabernets and blends.  Argentina is best known for inexpensive, ubiquitous malbec, and most producers are quite anxious to show off their talents and vineyards with higher end reds, whether barrel selections or single vineyard “old vine” bottlings. Vintages has finally agreed to provide them the stage. But I was not knocked out here. There are some wines of impressive girth and length, but most tend to be rather blunt – lacking some elegance. And the one wine that did show real finesse and grace was corked (Familia Marguery 2005 Malbec). Ironically one of the finest Argentine reds isLUIGI BOSCA RESERVA 2008 CABERNET SAUVIGNON, a very well put together if not profound red being released at only $17.95.

Under $20 Bargains
So now that the collectors have had their turn, it’s time to simply point out some very good buys at that magic under $20 price point – Ideal wines for weekend drinking.  There is not a lot to say here about each of them that is not already included their respective WineAlign reviews.  At $16.95 BERNARD-MASSARD BRUT CUVÉE DE L’ÉCUSSON Méthode Traditionnelle is a great value in dry, crisp and elegant sparkling wine, and you will impress folks to no end with the fact that it comes from Luxembourg. Still in Europe MACULAN 2010 PINOT GRIGIO from Veneto clearly outshines and out-values other grigios from Italy’s northeast at only $13.95. I’d grab a mitt full to have on hand as an opener during casual Holiday functions. SPY VALLEY 2010 SAUVIGNON BLANC is a real lip-smacker at $15.95, from a winery that is on a real hot streak. I love the purity of both their sauvignon and pinot. And finally, I welcome the return of California’s Guenoc, a large winery but one hidden away in the hills of the north coast. GUENOC 2009 CABERNET SAUVIGNON is very good for only $17.95.

Wassailing
With the harvest well along or complete in Ontario, some hard-working winery folk are already looking ahead to a post-harvest old country tradition called Wassail. The growers of Prince Edward County have turned this into a festival in recent years, and they invite you along, to find our more click here.

So You Think You Know Wine, Season 2
The first season of our blind tasting video series – So, You Think You Know Wine – was by all measure a great success. I have never received such positive feedback on a wine endeavour. Most of all viewers seemed to enjoy being educated while being comforted by the fact that everyone is fallible when it comes to the sport of blind tasting. Well, we are finishing off the edits for Season Two: The Tournament, which introduces more tasters and an elimination format. This could get ugly, but hopefully you will continue to be educated and entertained. Watch our season two preview here.

That’s it for this edition. See all my reviews for October 15th here.

Cheers and enjoy, David

- David Lawrason, VP of Wine at WineAlign

Stephen Ranger

 SHORT AND VERY SWEET

Unlike many other jurisdictions across the world the auction season for fine wine in Ontario is short and very sweet, with the premiere auctions of fine wine taking place within two weeks. During these two weeks over 2000 lots of the worlds greatest wines will be sold. If you are a lover of mature and collectible wines, saddle up and get ready to spend some serious money for otherwise unattainable wines at prices far below what you would have to spend on the international market. Don’t despair bargain hunters, there is lots there for you too.

The two major auctions of the season, the Toronto Symphony Orchestra, taking place on October 13 and the annual Vintages Auction on October 21, 22 and 23 are a wine lover’s dream. Both these sales take place at Waddington’s auction house at 275 King Street East. I am the auctioneer for both these great sales.

The Toronto Symphony Orchestra Fine Wine Auction

Featuring 233 lots the TSO sale, now in it’s 21^st year, is always a highlight of the season. Drawing on donations of fine wine from Toronto area collectors and philanthropists, the sale this year boasts an extensive collection of trophy Bordeaux and Burgundy as well as some great lots of collectible, ready to drink wines.

Because of its’ charitable status, the TSO sale offers buyers the luxury of no buyer’s premiums (the standard fee levied by the auction house) or sales tax. The sale this year is very much dominated by the wines of Bordeaux. In fact, just under half the sale is Bordeaux based. Highlights include a full case of 1993 Chateau Mouton Rothschild in original wooden case, Chateau Lafite Rothschild (the darling of Asian collectors) from 1986, 1994 1998 and 1999 will be hotly contested. Be sure to check out the lots featuring the sublime Chateau Leoville Las Cases 1982, a 100 point Parker rated wine.

Bargain hunters will want to check out the offering from the Rhone, Italy and California as well. The mixed lots of cult Italian wine such as Quintarelli Valpolicella and Castello Di Ama Vigna L’Apparita represent great opportunities.

The sale is catalogued and appraised by Robert Jull of Vinifera Wine Services who has followed the international wine scene for decades. Rob knows how to put a sale together and this offering is tighter and more focused than in previous years.

Catalogues are available for purchase from the TSO or can be downloaded from here.

 Fines and Rarest Wines Vintages Auction 2011

Vintages auction this season may be the best offering I have ever seen in terms of both the volume of great wines and overall quality. Despite economic uncertainty in many places in the world, the international wine market seems to be (so far), largely unaffected, as collectors and speculators appear to be undeterred in pursuit of vinous greatness. Auction houses like Sotheby’s and Hart Davis Hart in Chicago continue to report on auctions in which the offerings are 100% sold! After all, there is the dilemma of an ever decreasing supply, and what I will term the China factor. All the world’s major auction houses are focused on Asia; catering to collectors whose taste and wallet for the prestige wines of Bordeaux, especially Chateau Lafite, Margaux, Mouton Rothschild and Latour, as well as Romanee Conte have caused prices to rise by 20% each year for the last five years. Lafite, in particular has seen exponential increase in prices.  Cases of the sensational 1982 regularly crest $60,000.  Lot 227 in the Vintages sale in original wood is estimated to sell at $40,000/60,000. There are great wines in great quantity here.

The problem the average consumer will have with the Vintages auction is where to start. There is just so much wine and there is literally something for every taste and budget and the bulging catalogue of 1900 lots can seem overwhelming.

Let’s focus for now on wines for every day drinking. Look for mixed lots and lots featuring verticals (wines from the same chateaux from different vintages) and horizontals (wines from different chateaux from the same vintage).  Virtually every session of the sale is packed full of these little gems. Lot 1339 features a 14 bottle vertical of Washington state cult wine Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (estimate $2200/2600).  12 of these wines are rated 95 points or higher by Robert Parker. If that doesn’t suit your budget how about a mixed case lot of highly rated 2005 Bordeaux (lot 1494) estimated to sell for $600/700.

For buyers unused to commercial wine auctions there are a few things to nota bene. You will pay a premium of 17% as well as the HST on each lot for the privilege of bidding at the Vintages auction. It is well within international norms and is a bargain compared with buying wines on the international market. You can pick up your wines in November from the LCBO warehouse by appointment.

If you are starting a cellar or a seasoned collector, this is an event not to be missed. One of the unsung pleasures of this sale is the luxury of spending a day buying wonderful wine, sipping some great wine while you do it, and knowing at the end of the day, you will have stocked your cellar with wines you can’t buy anywhere else.

Catalogues are available for purchase from Vintages or can be downloaded from here .

John Szabo, MS

Tuscany & Argentina - 
Tuscany and Argentina are featured in the October 15th VINTAGES release, familiar territory for most wine lovers. The former is a fully developed region with parallel streams of both ultra-traditional and post-modern, while the latter is a newcomer to the scene, still navigating the intricacies of selling wine internationally. Both are popular sources for wine. Of the Tuscans in this release, my most serious enjoyment was caused by the 2007 POLIZIANO VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO DOCG $25.95, also my top smart buy. It’s a model that I’d love to see more Tuscan producers follow: pure class in a classic and recognizably Tuscan style.  Like the region, the traditional and the modern co-exist in harmony at Poliziano. The winery is partly powered by clean, renewable solar energy and is equipped with all the modern winemaking aids. Yet the style remains resolutely classic: a mid-weight, sangiovese-dominated wine, with balance, integrity and complexity, relying more on finesse and refinement rather than heft, raw power or wood. The finish lingers on beautifully. Other recommended Tuscan wines include 2007 TENUTA DI NOZZOLE LA FORRA CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA DOCG $29.95 and 2008 VOLPAIA CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG $21.95 . See the full list of recommended Tuscan wines here.
 

Bye-bye Big Bottles
Argentina delivers a couple of top wines, but first a rare deviation to the not recommended: basta with the heavy bottles, por favor. Argentina is one of the guiltiest countries when it comes to the outmoded crime of stupidly heavy bottles – it’s like 1997 calling all over again. I’d say that most switched-on wine drinkers are no longer fooled by the facile attempt to add value by adding ounces to bottle weight. The gravitas comes from within, where the money should be spent.

Needless to say, there’s also the consideration of the serious environmental impact of producing, shipping and recycling heavier bottles. In this area the LCBO is a world leader – as of January 1st Ontario will not stock any wines in bottles weighing more than 420g (the most criminal come close to 1kilo, empty). Though this restriction is officially for wines at or below $15 retail, “favourable consideration will be given to product offers that are lower in weight”, says senior LCBO VP of Sales and Marketing Bob Downey. Thus any suppliers offering lighter weight bottles at premium price points will have an advantage over competitors. We can only hope that suppliers won’t just artificially raise the price of their wines above $15 so they can keep their barbarian bottles. Should you find yourself at Vintages and you haven’t gotten in your work out for the day, do a few curls with either 2006 NAVARRO CORREAS STRUCTURA ULTRA IP Mendoza, Limited Release $34.95 or 2007 RIGLOS GRAN CORTE Mendoza $37.95, though you may be stiff in the morning.

On the brighter, lighter side, there are a couple of brilliant Argentine wines in the release, headlined by 2008 CATENA ALTA MALBEC Estate Lots, Mendoza $49.95. Catena has been a leader and a pioneer for over one hundred years in Mendoza, and the experience, and confidence, shows. This ’08 has obvious class and complexity with beguiling violet-floral notes, ripe but fresh black fruit, and well-integrate wood spice, while the palate shows uncommon freshness and liveliness and tremendous length. Also excellent and worth the premium price is the 2009 CATENA ALTA CHARDONNAY Estate Lots, Mendoza $39.95.

Closer to the affordable value end of the scale, try the 2006 DURIGUTTI RESERVE MALBEC Mendoza, Unfiltered $26.95 or the 2008 LUIGI BOSCA RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON Maipü, Mendoza $17.95, both well-balanced, representative examples. See all recommended Argentine wines here with reviews.
  
Top Ten Smart Buys

As for the top ten smart buys, well worth pointing out is the superb 2009 LE CLOS JORDANNE LE CLOS JORDANNE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR VQA Niagara Peninsula, Twenty Mile Bench $45.00. By general consensus, 2009 is the best vintage yet for LCJ, and for Ontario pinot noir in general (see my article). I predict that this will be a turning point for the Ontario industry. The full range from Le Clos is impressive so watch for this and other upcoming releases. You’ll also find an impressive bubbly from New Zealand for $21.95, a textbook Alsatian gewürztraminer, and a sturdy French country red for $16.95 that will be perfect with your autumnal game dishes, roasts and braises. See them all here.

Fom the October 15th Vintages release:
Top Ten Smart Buys
Recommended Tuscany at A Glance
Recommended Argentina at A Glance
All Reviews

Cheers,

John Szabo, Master Sommelier

John – A Shotgun Affair

My approach to drinking over long thanksgiving meals is very simple: forget the straightjacket of specific wines with specific courses, and take the ‘shotgun’ approach instead. My analogy refers to the scattergun variety, un-rifled for less accuracy but greater coverage: lay out a bunch of different bottles on the table at the same time, and let family and guests taste whatever, and in whichever order they wish. If your shotgun is well loaded with buckshot and the spray wide enough, you’ll hit at least a bulls-eye or two. No matter if some innocent dishes or wines get hurt along the way – this is convivial family dining, not a matter of life or death. This works for me because at my place, a myriad of dishes are thrown onto to the table at the same time and my plate fills up with dozens of disparate and distinct flavours, making a single sniper shot tougher than picking off a wild turkey at 200 yards. I like to include a wide range of flavours and textures, while at the same time selecting wines that are versatile enough to play nice with most of the dishes. This means generally bright, fresh, palate-cleansing acidity, minimal oak (except in the fireplace, where it belongs), light tannins that won’t dry out that over-cooked bird any further, and occasionally a pinch of sweetness to take on that sweet potato or pumpkin pie.

Here are a four reasonably priced but respectable, versatile, virtually fail-safe Ontario wines that cover a wide range of styles. I’d be happy to have them on my table this thanksgiving:

13th Street Premier Cuvée, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Traditional Method $29.95
Cave Spring Riesling 2009, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $14.95
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2009, VQA Niagara $30.00
Château Des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling 2007, VQA Niagara On The Lake $21.95

Sara

Although there are many possible variations on the traditional Thanksgiving dinner most of them involve a bird of some sort and are certainly rich and filling. Full-bodied whites and lighter reds are therefore often the best choices to accompany this festive feast.

My white recommendation is a great value local wine from the highly acclaimed Tawse Winery. The Sketches of Niagara Chardonnay 2009, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $19.95 is both rich and elegant. Unlike many bloated, oaky new world style Chardonnays, this example is clean, savory, exhibits beautiful minerality and has just the right amount of acidity to balance the wine leaving you feeling less full.

For a red, I choose a highly aromatic, silky red from the Beaujolais Cru appellation of Morgon. The Château De Bellevue Morgon 2009, Ac Beaujolais, France,  $19.95 is fleshy, juicy, slightly floral and is intensely satisfying despite its mid-weight character. A modern-inspired style which features clove spice, lavender, mixed berries and black cherries is sure to compliment stuffed turkey or roasted duck.

Steve

When I think of Thanksgiving I think of moist, juicy, roast turkey with roast potatoes and root vegetables. For this we need rich whites and soft fruity mid-weight reds. As I write this I am in Greece and so would like to recommend a delicious white made from the moschofilero grape that is great value in the LCBO at present. Boutari Moschofilero 2010, Mantinia Greece $11.95 is deservedly becoming Greece’s signature aromatic white and this is a great value ambassador with its orange blossom, apricot, peach and pear aromas. The palate is rich and creamy, yet it is soft, dry, well balanced and flavourful with the orangey acidity becoming more evident on the finish. Very good length.

It is mostly too hot for Pinot Noir in Australia but in the southern part of Western Australia in Pemberton it is cool enough due to southerly ocean breezes from the Antarctic. Thinking moist turkey again we need high acidity and mild berry flavour which Barwick White Label Pinot Noir 2010, Pemberton $15.95 delivers at a great price. It is a fruity vibrant pinot that is currently my household value pick. It is a pale red with aromas of cherry, raspberry and plum fruit plus some earthy tones and a hint of tobacco. It is midweight, well balanced with a solid yet gentle acid and tannin structure. It finishes well with the focus well maintained. Very good length.

For my third pick I am choosing a great value red from Ontario that is mostly cabernet franc blended with merlot. Pelee Island seems to be on a roll with its cabernet based reds. Their Alvar 2008 Cabernet Merlot 2008, Ontario VQA $12.45 is a delicious flavourful structured wine made from 60% cabernet franc, 30% merlot, 10% zweigelt. The nose shows delicate aromas of red berry fruit with a hint of tobacco and some beet notes. The midweight palate is velvety smooth and very fruity with crab-apple jelly and raspberry tea flavours and nice balancing acidity and grippy tannins and a notion of elegance. Very good length. This is way better than the price would indicate.

So invite many friends and family to join you for a Thanksgiving feast and impress them with these three value choices available at most LCBO stores. There is a wine here for most tastes and all three will be great with juicy turkey.

David – Go Big and Go Home

Thanksgiving dinner is one of the great family occasions of the year, a celebration of all that is close and personal. For that reason I always serve local wines.  Here in Ontario we are reminded constantly by our government agencies to “Go local”, to “Taste the Good” and that “Good things Grow….”.  I drink Ontario wines because many are now excellent and it is my way of saying thanks to those who have put so much time, effort and money to achieve that success.

But which Ontario wines?  First of all, do not limit yourself to one wine. Have at least one white and one red open so people can choose one, or both. The hubbub of a Thanksgiving dinner is not really the place to be submersed in the subtleties and dialogues of pairing.  That very funny Molson Canadian commercial about the anxiety of “whether the honeysuckle aroma of pinot noir goes with Aunt Mary’s maple candied yams” makes a good point (but I would serve something more characterful than Canadian).

Indeed I would serve Ontario wine that is very characterful. Thanksgiving dinner is after all a monumentally complex meal. So go more expensive in order to find wine of structure and complexity. Personally I have always loved pinot noir with turkey, for the same reason I like cranberry with turkey. Look for as generous a pinot as you can find – perhaps Norman Hardie from Prince Edward County, or Tawse or Flat Rock from Niagara. For white, try a bold, full on barrel fermented Ontario chardonnay, of which there are dozens that might work. Personally I would look to Tawse again, or Closson Chase, Hidden Bench, Ravine, Malivoire or Southbrook.

To find the best choices at an LCBO near you, register on WineAlign.com and go to Find Wine.  Select pinot noir then chardonnay, select Ontario, and select a price of under $40. You will get a list with Ontario’s best at the top!  Enjoy!

Click here to find Ontario Pinot Noir under $40.

Click here to find Ontario Chardonnay under $40.

Julian Hitner

“The grape that’s easy to love.” Such, in a nutshell, is what Syrah-Shiraz is all about—that and a few other things. But when push comes to shove, there are few other red grapes worthy of the same adulation as this marvellous multi-named varietal. At home in virtually every warm-climate region in the world, though a few cooler places are also giving it a go, Syrah-Shiraz (the two names are the same) unquestionably ranks as one of the wine world’s greatest treasures.

Syrah Grapes

For the record: Syrah-Shiraz does not originally hail from the (now-) pariah nation of Iran, which just so happens to contain a city named Shiraz. In fact, Syrah-Shiraz originally hails from the northern Rhône, where it is simply called ‘Syrah.’ From more serious oenophiles, its parents are Dureza (red) and Mondeuse Blanche. In this part of France, and this part of the Old World for that matter, there is no question that Syrah reaches its greatest zenith of quality, depth, intensity, and refinement. In the northern Rhône, this vigourous varietal is often best suited to being planted on relatively south-facing, well-drained, rockier soils. Though heat is seldom a problem, Syrah will also react to overly excessive temperatures by ripening too quickly. A few facts well worth remembering.

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

Top appellations? Think Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, and Cornas. Throughout the very former, Syrah often takes on more fragrant, slightly smoky (even ‘roasted’) overtones. It is often softened with a small percentage of Viognier, which has the additional effects of adding to the fragrance and colour of the wine. In Hermitage, on the other hand, Syrah becomes much more powerful, concentrated, and extremely ageworthy. Taking very well to new French oak, as it does in Côte-Rôtie, young Hermitage will often display beguiling aromas of blackberries and fresh saddle leather, laced with an assortment of black fruits, subtle chocolate, and spice; as it ages, more gamy and cedary overtones tend to take over, yet the best wines will almost never lose their sense of richness, concentration, and raw power. As for Cornas, wines from this sometimes-underrated appellation tend to have more in common with Hermitage than collectors might think. Primary differences are namely greater ruggedness and more of a brooding attitude, and (perhaps) slightly less complexity. Either way, for top examples of Syrah, one need look no further than these three appellations.

In the southern Rhône, Syrah takes on more of a supplementary role than a predominant one. In the top appellations of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas, it accompanies Grenache—along with a dollop of Mourvèdre—in the blend. In other parts of southern France, Syrah often plays a similar role, adding structure and perfume to the wine.

Outside of France, there is no shortage of places where this marvellous grape excels; yet few are more famous than the winegrowing regions of Australia. In this part of the world, the grape is almost always called ‘Shiraz,’ and tastes extremely different when compared to its counterparts in the Rhône. For those seeking sheer power, the Barossa Valley is your best bet. Here, centenarian vines provide for the most powerful, most concentrated, most alcoholic, and most flavourful Shiraz anywhere on earth. Oftentimes infused with eucalyptus, common aromas to watch out for, particularly in youthful examples, are rich dark (or milk) chocolate, black fruits, dark cherries, leather, vanilla, and spice. In the past, many Australian winemakers used to age Shiraz in American oak; though many are now switching to French in order to bring out fresher fruit characteristics and greater elegance in their wines.

Two Hands Bella's Garden Shiraz

Outside of Barossa, Shiraz can be found almost everywhere in Australia. In South Australia—where the Barossa Valley is located, by the way—McLaren Vale often yields ever-so-slightly less powerful, oftentimes more velvety examples; while the Clare Valley tends to offer finer fruit clarity and precision, if not wines of similar weight to Barossa. In Coonawarra, more mint- and mineral-laden, as well as less alcoholic, wines tend to be found. Switching states, in New South Wales, Hunter Valley Shiraz, while not as widely available as its South Australian colleagues, can be just as rich and extracted, though oftentimes offering just a bit more grace and silkiness. In Western Australia, Margaret River Shiraz is not to be missed: like Coonawarra, this is a much cooler climate, only with much greater clarity and forwardness of fruit, plus less concentration and alcohol—a much more restrained style, if you ask me. As one can see, the choices for Shiraz in Australia are endless; and there are a host of other regions I have not even mentioned!

Fess Parker 2007 Rodneys Syrah

After Australia, California comes next on the list of great New-World Syrah-Shiraz producers. For the most part, the grape goes by the name of ‘Syrah,’ with the best examples commonly bringing out the more white peppery, brambleberried, and ‘forested’ aromas of St-Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage in the northern Rhône, while at the same time tasting much riper, more supple, and assuredly higher in alcohol. And even then, the differences are easy to decipher: richer oak influence, more profound, purer varietal aromatics, and something of the reverse in terms of ‘Old World reservedness.’ Best regions for Californian Syrah? At present, most point to Paso Robles and Santa Barbara (and all of the sub-regions), yet Syrah can be found in various quantities throughout most winegrowing areas in California.

As for the rest of the world? In Washington State, excellent Syrah can also be had, tasting just as rich as its Californian counterparts, yet at the same time possessing more balanced levels of acidity; not to mention a sort-of ‘coolness’ that perhaps comes as a result of significant day/night-time conditions. In South America, Chile has also shown enormous potential for crafting some of the best bottlings in the Southern Hemisphere, outside of Australia. Though it hasn’t even been twenty years since the first plantings were assembled in the Aconcagua Valley, Syrah has since taken Chile by storm, the finest examples brimming with intense varietal characters, while concurrently often featuring amazing overtones of crème de cassis, ripe flowers, and (or course) new oak influences. In Argentina, even more Syrah is grown, though it has been said that excessive yields have only made for a handful of notable examples thus far. In South Africa, where the grape is sometimes labelled ‘Shiraz,’ promising endeavours have also begun to emerge. And even New Zealand is beginning to get the hang of Syrah, particularly in Hawkes Bay, with the best bottlings, though still rather peppery, managing to impress with their overall fruit clarity, structure, and refinement of texture.

Ending our thoughts on this grape, even other places in Europe outside of France have shown remarkable results with ‘Syrah,’ as the grape is widely called in most regions. In Italy, premium—as well as some very cheap and downright lousy—examples can be found in most provinces. In Tuscany, up to twenty percent Syrah may be used in the Chianti blend; though Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are more common international grapes. At the same time, there is nowadays no shortage of Syrah-dominant (or exclusive) wines to be bought, especially throughout Tuscany, many with personalities all of their own. And the rest of Europe? Let’s just say there are plenty of other places not listed here. But what with the locales already mentioned, each with their own take on the grape, what does it matter?

Click here for a few gems from the 1 October 2011 Vintages Release

David Lawrason

Welcome the first of a half dozen Vintages fall releases stuffed with tempting wines bound to strain your budget and your will power.  It is that time of year, when the majority of the world’s fine wine is actually purchased, and so the run of heavy hitters begins.  Not every wine on this release is a world beater however, indeed there are number of difficult wines that I am rating under 85, so watch carefully.

White Bordeaux Redemption

Last time out I bashed over-priced, boring red Bordeaux, and I heard not one complaint from readers. (But I may now be on no-fly list for visits into the Medoc). I am delighted therefore to report that Bordeaux has risen to become one of my favourite white wine regions on the planet. There are three essential styles of white Bordeaux, all represented on this release. At its most basic it is straightforward vibrant, non-oaked white, usually bearing the basic Bordeaux AOC label.  Historically these were often painfully dull and sour wines but with the likes of DOURTHE 2010 LA GRANDE CUVÉE BLANC ($14.95) show that Bordeaux’s world is changing too. It is incredibly vibrant while steering a course somewhere north of bombastic New Zealand style. The next level is the barrel fermented semillon-sauvignons from appellations like Graves and Pessac-Leognan. Anti-woodistas may groan at this style, but barrels are by and large being used very well nowadays and the wines are brighter and more elegant than ever. Witness the wonderful, superb value LE G DE CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD 2009 $23.95. It too bears the Bordeaux appellation, but because it is a dry wine made within the Sauternes appellation by one of its leading estates. And finally, I have always loved Bordeaux’s sweet Sauternes, Barsacs and other “ac’s” (Loupiac, Cadillac, Monbazillac). Vintages has a small but very good selection of half bottles in this release; and if prepping for some holiday gatherings where you want to walk a different path, I highly recommend CHÂTEAU DOISY-VÉDRINES 2007  Sauternes, 2eme Cru at $29.00/375ml.
     

Big Ticket Cellaring Wines

Vintages has put together a collection of what it considers cellar worthy wines, for beginners. The basic information they provide on ageing and cellaring conditions is quite detailed and useful and by the book. But if you are seriously thinking about starting a cellar or collection, you should ask yourself some basic questions before you begin planning your route and space. The most important is whether or not you actually like the taste of mature wine. Cellaring and ageing was essential in years gone by as the only way to make young, raw and rudimentarily made wines palatably smooth. And so a whole industry and set of rules and lore evolved to serve this aspect of wine appreciation. Nowadays, with winemaking having worked out the major kinks, most wines are actually quite enjoyable when they are young. They have all that carefully ripened fruit thanks to more attentive viticulture. The wine is then carefully fermented to preserve its character, then carefully aged to gain accents from the barrels. So will you actually like it when the leathery, earthy more oxidative notes begin to take hold?  Many people don’t, and you just might save yourself a lot of time and money.

This notion ran through my mind as I tasted two of the big ticket reds on this release. ORNELLAIA 2008 from Tuscany’s Bolgheri region is one of the collected and expensive wines ($184.95)  of Italy. And it is downright delicious; a piece of haut couture with fabulous gloss, nuance and depth. I really just wanted to sit back and enjoy a bottle right then and there. Time in a decanter would have solved any real issue around grate of fine tannin.  Same when I tasted the delicious DOW’S 1997 VINTAGE PORTat $84.95. Vintage port is historically the most aged of all wines – laid away from grandchildren and all that – yet here I was swooning over the richness, suppleness and charm of a 1997 babe in arms.

With both these wines, had I the money to collect multiple bottles, I would want to protect them to preserve their youth with proper storage conditions.  But that’s a very different – and much more liberating – notion than feeling you have to put wines down until they become good enough to drink. Most are just fine right now.

Scintillating Syrahs

WineAlign colleague John Szabo has done a fine tutorial on the two schools of syrah and shiraz featured in the October 1 release. My fascination with syrah is only eclipsed by my fascination with pinot noir. To me syrah is pinot noir on steroids, more obvious but intriguing nonetheless. And both express their sense of place well, which is the sub-text of this release. There are syrahs from several specific appellations where this grape shines: the northern Rhone of course, the south of France, Tuscany, McLaren Vale and Barossa in Australia and Santa Barbara in California. (Too bad there are none from BC and Washington because the Pacific Northwest is, to me, the great undiscovered syrah region.)

Overall the selection is of high quality, and my only complaint is the overpriced Elderton Command Shiraz which is a bit of a throwback to a very jammy, high alcohol style that defined Aussie shiraz in the 90s.  Elsewhere, I am leaning to a classic DOMAINE DE BONSERINE LA SARRASINE 2008 CÔTE-RÔTIE as my favourite red of the release. It’s no steal at $49.95, but the quality edges toward outstanding, and it is textbook Cote Rotie.  New World syrah fans should not miss FESS PARKER 2007 THE BIG EASY SYRAH from Santa Barbara County at $34.95 – again a classic of this region that has been intriguing me with lush, black, smoked meat and tarry syrahs ahead of any region in California. And one the great values on the release is vibrant, peppery little-big number from the south of France. DOMAINE LES YEUSES 2008 LES ÉPICES SYRAH from Vins de Pays d’Oc is all fireworks at  $14.95.

Under $20 Bargains

There are at least three excellent buys under $20 from diverse parts of the world on this release. TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA 2009 CHARDONNAY from Niagara is a huge value at $19.95, a mini-Meursault for fans of white Burgundy style chardonnay. From New Zealand don’t miss WILD ROCK 2008 GRAVEL PIT RED ($17.95) from the Gimblett Gravels appellation of Hawkes Bay. Great modern winemaking going on here from the folks who bring us Craggy Range. And finally back over to France, and the next chapter in the year-long saga of fine little Beaujolais from the glorious 2009 vintage. Don’t miss CHÂTEAU DE PIERREUX 2009 BROUILLY at  $18.95.
    

Profile Wine Group Portfolio Tasting 

‘Tis the season for agents to showcase their Consignment and Private Order wares for the hundreds of trade buyers looking to beef up stocks for the busy Holiday Season. On Tuesday this week I attended a large annual portfolio tasting for Profile Wine Group www.profilewinegroup.com one of the larger independent agencies in Toronto. The week prior I attended a similar tasting for  The Stem Group www.stemwinegroup.com, and this week I hope to attend a tasting for Oakville-based BND Wines and Spirits. Then on Thursday, October 27 there is the big Grand Cru Event for Halpern Wines with 70 wineries in town, featuring an auction that helps raise funds for Toronto General and Western Hospital Foundation, combined with a series of great chefs dinners on Oct 29. For details go to www.grandcru.ca.

I am always amazed to be reminded at these events how many wines are sold in Ontario without appearing at Vintages or the LCBO.  Many of the producers I encountered at the Profile Tasting were recognizable, but usually just for one or two wines that might appear at Vintages, on occasion. Here wineries poured their entire line-ups, making it easier to put the wines in context in terms of style and quality. I ran through the line-ups of several producers including Washington’s Columbia Crest/Chateau St Michelle, Pierre Sparr of Alsace, Falernia in Chile’s remote Elqui Valley and several Piedmont and Tuscan producers. I spent the most time on Tuscany but I would like to save comments for next time because Tuscany is featured in Vintages October 15 release, and I have been working on Tuscany for an upcoming article in Toronto Life.

So I leave you with a hot tip of the week – Falernia of Chile.  This is an innovative, pioneering producer hewing a great reputation from the rocky, steep vineyards of the remote Elqui Valley, the most northern wine region in the county. “My wines are different from all others in Chile”, proclaimed winemaker Giorgio Flessati. “It’s a combination of different fruit from the Elqui and my Italian winemaking background”.  When the Falernia 2007 Syrah Reserva blew through Vintages at $15 in June I raved about its depth and classic styling. At this tasting I was very impressed by the whites, including a racy tank sample of  rare 2011 Pedro Ximinez, a grape normally used to make sweet wines in southern Spain. Likewise with a steely, riveting Sauvignon Blanc, a rich semi-ripasso style carmenere and new cab-merlot-syrah blend called Number One.  The prices are great folks, check it out at www.profilewinegroup.com.

That’s it for this edition. I’ll be back prior to the October 15th release. See all my reviews for October 1st here.

Cheers and enjoy, David

- David Lawrason, VP of Wine at WineAlign

John Szabo, MS

Top Ten Smart Buys:  The Top Ten wines for savvy buyers this week includes a terrific $20 Niagara chardonnay from the winemaker who is setting the pace for the grape in Canada, a very fine 1er Cru Chablis for $26.95, a single vineyard Barolo from the great 2004 vintage for just $33.95, and a Chilean Malbec that will have the Argentines across the border questioning their South American domination of the grape. See them all here.

Thanksgiving Wine Menu

My approach to drinking over long thanksgiving meals is to dispense with the rigidity of specific wines with specific courses, and take the ‘shotgun’ approach instead (the scattergun variety, un-rifled for less accuracy but greater coverage): lay out a bunch of different bottles on the table at the same time, and let family and guests taste whatever, and in whichever order they wish. If your shotgun is well loaded with buckshot and the spray wide enough, you’ll hit at least a bullseye or two. No matter if some innocent dishes or wines get hurt along the way – this is convivial family dining, not a matter of life and death after all. I take this approach mostly because at my place, a myriad of dishes are thrown onto to the table at the same time and my plate fills with dozens of disparate and distinct flavours, making a single sniper shot impossible. I like to include a wide range of flavours and textures, while at the same time selecting wines that are versatile enough to play nice with most of the dishes. This means generally bright, fresh, palate-cleansing acidity, minimal oak (except in the fireplace, where it belongs), light tannins that won’t dry out that over-cooked bird any further, and occasionally a pinch of sweetness to take on that sweet potato or pumpkin pie. Here are four reasonably priced but respectable, versatile, virtually failsafe wines that I’d be happy to have on my table this thanksgiving, pulled from the October 1st VINTAGES release:

NV BRISEBARRE BRUT VOUVRAY AC Touraine, Méthode Traditionelle $18.95
2008 DR. HERMANN RIESLING KABINETT QmP, Erdener Treppchen $16.95
2008 ROSEHALL RUN COLD CREEK CABERNET FRANC VQA Prince Edward County $22.95
2006 ROYAL TOKAJI BLUE LABEL 5 PUTTONYOS TOKAJI ASZU Hungary  $19.95

Two Schools of Syrah/Shiraz: Where do You Fit In?

The feature this week is Syrah and Shiraz from around the world. Given the radical variations in style of which the grape is capable, it’s more than a little misleading to lop them all under the same category on a wine list, or put them side by side on a wine store shelf. Even the name used on the label, i.e. shiraz vs. syrah, can mislead you into expecting a certain style; remember the wine is often named by accidental geography or by the marketing department, not by the winemaker or after the most appropriate “style school”.

The variety in question may be identical, but it’s a long way from the northern Rhône Valley to the Barossa Valley, and the wines could hardly be more different, save for a couple of common features such as deep purple colour and a telltale whiff of black pepper. Beyond that, alcohol can range from 12% to 15+%, flavours from fresh black berry to fully jammy and medicinal, and texture from soft and cuddly to ferociously firm.

There’s little secret which style I prefer drinking, and if you’d like to ‘align’ your palate with syrah/shiraz schools from around the world, take this little taste test. Find some friends (ideally), pick up the 6 representative wines listed here below, open and put them in a paper bag (grab them at the LCBO checkout counter), have someone else number the bags at random so everyone is equally in the dark, then taste, compare and record the ones that set your taste buds racing.
Then it’s time for the revelation; if your top wines included the 2005 BECKETT’S FLAT MARGARET RIVER SHIRAZ Margaret River, Western Australia $21.95, the 2007 GUIGAL CROZES-HERMITAGE AC $24.95 or the 2008 DOMAINE LES YEUSES LES ÉPICES SYRAH Vins de Pays d’Oc $14.95, you’re a fan of what I call the “old school”: more reserved, spicy, fresh and firm syrah.

If your top wines included 2007 FESS PARKER THE BIG EASY SYRAH Santa Barbara County $34.95, the 2009 PÉREZ CRUZ LIMITED EDITION SYRAH Maipo Alto, Maipo Valley $19.95 or the 2009 THORN-CLARKE TERRA BAROSSA SHIRAZ Barossa, South Australia $16.95, then you’re in the ‘new school’ camp, alongside lovers of rich, ripe, bold and heady shiraz. For some additional education, check out what I and the other WineAlign critics had to say about these wines, and you’re alignment (and ours) will become clearer.

From the October 1st Vintages release:
Top Ten Smart Buys
Three Old School Syrah
Three New School Shiraz

Thanksgiving Picks
All Reviews

Cheers,

John Szabo, Master Sommelier

John Szabo, MS

For several years now industry followers have been touting pinot noir as one of Ontario’s most promising varieties. It’s a “short cycle ripener” meaning that it should be well suited to Ontario’s relatively compact growing season, able to reach full maturity before getting clipped by frost. Many parts (but not all) of Niagara and Prince Edward County also have the right soils that in theory should yield fine wines.

Yet until recently quality has been spotty, with the occasional bright exception, but too many substandard examples damned by faint praise along the lines of “this shows promise”. It’s been a clear of case of wishful thinking sullying sincere beliefs, as though everyone were willing pinot from Ontario to be as good as they wanted it to be. The highly regarded 2007 vintage has turned out to be a disappointment in my view, with many pinots yet, and likely never, to shed a burly cloak of tannins from either overenthusiastic extraction or simply overly thick, rain-starved berries full of sugar but unripe polyphenols.

2008 was problematic for other reasons, namely high disease pressure from mildews, which has resulted in early maturing, browning, volatile wines, many of which are redolent of kitchen compost and slipping past prime already.

Pinot Noir Grapes

Then along comes 2009: cooler than 2007, drier and sunnier than 2008 yet with sufficient rainfall, and the results are nothing short of very good, and in some cases, excellent. The perfect storm of maturing vines, more experienced winemaking, good vintage conditions and a critical mass of serious and dedicated producers have finally converted potential into reality. Ontario is on the map for pinot lovers. The specific sub-regions best suited to quality pinot are also coming clearly into focus. In my view, the Niagara Escarpment (including the St. David’s, Twenty Mile, Short Hills and Beamsville Bench sub-appellations) is the most consistent and concentrated source of high quality in the Niagara Peninsula, while in a relatively short time Prince Edwards County has established itself as perhaps the pre-eminent source of delicate, minerally pinot. I suspect we’ll soon be discussing sub-regions in PEC, too.

Below are some of my top picks from recent tastings, not a comprehensive report, but enough to cause rejoicing among fanatic pinot lovers. (Prices listed where available; check WineAlign.com for additional details on availability)

Closson Chase CCV Pinot Noir 2009 Prince Edward County 

Closson’s 2009 pinot is a light, herbal, mineral and vibrantly zesty example with terrific persistence and delicate fruit flavours. This highlights the County’s terroir nicely, emphasizing fruit freshness and limestone and oyster shell-like stoniness; tannins are light, firm and grippy, acid is saliva-inducing, and length impressive. Wood is barely detectable. Lovely wine in a refined mould. Tasted September 2011. 91 Drink 2011-2015

Hardie Wines Limited County Pinot Noir Unfiltered 2009 Prince Edward County, $35

Hardie’s 2009 County pinot is his best yet in my view. It spent 11 months in small barrels, of which 40% were new, though the wood is barely detectable here. The texture is pure silk and elegance, with lovely fresh and delicate tart red fruit, vibrant and pure, with energetic acidity, very fine-grained tannins, and a wonderfully refreshing 11.5% alcohol. Flavours run to the wild strawberry and morello cherry spectrum. Very compelling, inviting constant sips. Tasted February 2011.  92 Drink 2011-2015

Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Black Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 Niagara-on-the-Lake

This is more closed and tightly wound than the Red Paw Vineyard pinot from Coyote’s Run, with considerably more structure and grippy tannins. Fruit spans the red and black berry spectrum, and flavour intensity and depth are impressive. Solidly structured and age worthy all in all. Best after 2012. Tasted September 2011. 90 Drink 2012-2018

Hidden Bench Estate Pinot Noir 2009 Beamsville Bench

Very open, perfumed, fresh and fragrant, with wood noted alongside highly concentrated, vibrant red and even black berry fruit. Tannins and wood are indeed still marked, and this needs time to integrated, another 1-3 years I’d speculate. Tasted September 2011. 90 Drink 2012-2017

Rosewood Estates Winery Pinot Noir 2009 Niagara Escarpment & Twenty Valley 

Here’s a clean, bright, high-toned, juicy red fruit-flavoured pinot from Rosewood Estates, crafted as with most of Natalie Spytkowski’s wines in an elegant and refined style. The palate is suave and silky, with light tannins and bright acid. Fine, lingering finish; very pretty. Tasted September 2011. 90 Drink 2011-2014

Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 Niagara-on-the-Lake

The 2009 Red Paw Vineyard pinot is firmly in the lighter red berry fruit spectrum of flavours, with notable high-toned cherry and a touch of earthy-funk that’s well within normally acceptable bounds. Tannins are firm and grippy, bolstered by crisp acids, though the wine is well-balanced all around. Impressive length. Tasted September 2011. 89 Drink 2011-2014

Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Pinot Noir 2009 Niagara-on-the-Lake $24.95

This is evidently a serious and ambitious example of pinot noir, with generous oak influence – abundant baking spice, chocolate and fresh coffee grounds. The palate is juicy and savoury, with substantial intensity and long, warm finish. A meaty and savoury wine all in all, one of the finest estate pinots yet from Coyote’s Run. Tasted September 2011. 89 Drink 2011-2015

Tawse Winery Grower’s Blend Pinot Noir 2009 Niagara Escarpment & Twenty Valley  $30

The Tawse Grower’s Blend Pinot is currently closed on the nose but reveals a good deal of depth and flavour intensity on the palate. There’s generous density and weight for the vintage, while acidity is balanced and crisp, and tannins are grippy and dusty. All in all, a fine, well made wine that should improve over the next 2-3 years in the cellar. Tasted September 2011. 89 Drink 2012-2016

Casa Dea Estates Winery Pinot Noir 2009 Prince Edward County 

Here’s a light, tight, juicy and mineral example of County pinot in the style that excels in the region. The palate is light and flavour intensity modest, but this displays a good dose of limestone minerality and delicate freshness that should be allowed to characterize the wines of the area. For current consumption or short term hold.  Tasted September 2011. 88 Drink 2011-2013

Closson Chase Church Side Pinot Noir 2009 Prince Edward County 

The Churchside pinot is the burliest and most evidently woody of Closson’s 09 Pinots (if such a thing can be said). Flavours are in the darker fruit spectrum, and chocolate-coffee flavours linger on the finish. I think in time this will integrate nicely; try in 1-2 years. Tasted September 2011. 89 Drink 2012-2015

Twenty Twenty Seven Cellars Queenston Road Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009, VQA St. David’s Bench $30

Made from 10 year old vines in the Queenston Road vineyard, one of the warmest in Niagara, Panagapka’s 2009 pinot is a delightfully pale ruby colour with modest intensity aromas in the subdued red berry spectrum. Additional compost, wet earth and sweet baking spice from 14 months in oak (30% new, French) provide complexity. The palate is deceptively powerful, with light, ripe tannins, balanced acidity, quite serious depth and weight, and a forceful, lingering finish. Quite a fine example here, dinking well now but even better in 1-2 years I suspect. Tasted August 2011. 90 Drink 2012-2015

2009 Flat Rock Cellars The Rogue Pinot Noir, Twenty Mile Bench

The Rogue, made in honour of owner Ed Madronich’s father, is a pinot noir made white, or at least a little “gris”. This looks like a well oxidized, old white wine. The nose offers high quality barrel notes up front (30% new) alongside lees; this smells like fine chardonnay. The palate is quite ripe, creamy, with crisp-balancing acidity, and long finish. Well done, a new paradigm for the variety in Ontario. 89+ Drink 2011-2013

2009 Rosehall Run Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir, Prince Edward County

100% estate-grown fruit from Hillier in PEC, this has a really lovely and pure red fruit/berry character, red currant, red cherry, with a fine measure of florality. This was aged 50% in new barrels, and wood spice is certainly a feature if not exaggerated, though a measure less wood influence would have made this even more enticing and allowed the minerality and delicate fruit to shine through. The palate is light and lean in the good way, with brisk but not excessive acidity, moderate alcohol and light, fine-grained tannins. Solid length. 89 Drink 2011-2014.

John Szabo, MS