John Szabo, MS
Sud de France, the umbrella brand for wine and food products from Languedoc-Roussillon celebrates its 4th anniversary today with a worldwide synchronized tasting of wines from the region. 90 bloggers in 24 countries were each sent the same 5 wines to review and comment (though only 4 wines made it to this reviewer). Each of the reviewers was asked to post his/her notes at the same time, 11am in my case. There was no pressure from the organization to post anything but honest opinion. Reviewers were asked to “focus your comments on the overall community of Sud de France wines”, since this is not supposed to be promotion for individual brands.
It’s an interesting concept and positive use of technology to bring together a myriad of voices from across the planet for a single tasting, and thus in one initiative compare the impressions of opinion leaders in two dozen markets. I can only imagine what a logistical challenge it must have been to coordinate it all. What might have been even more interesting would have been to incorporate a live video element to the synchronized tasting, to have critics discuss and describe their views in an open forum to which anyone could tune in, but don’t ask me how to do that. Perhaps a panel of selected critics together at Sud de France headquarters tasting and discussing, with the possibility of video phone-in comments from other participating critics and spectators. As it stands, it’s still entertaining for readers to surf the world and compare views of identical wines across a broad spectrum of tasters.
For all the views visit:
http://suddefrance-export.net/sync-tasting/blog/commentaires/
I spent the summer of 1998 in the Languedoc working in the kitchen of the now-defunct Michelin-starred restaurant Chez Léonce in Florensac, a small town located between Montpellier and Béziers in the heart of wine country. Though I was not a sommelier at the time, I spent most of my days off touring wine regions and tasting local wines, with a great deal of guidance from Chez Léonce’s passionate sommelier. It was a great time of discovery, just when the region was experience a serious renaissance. There were dozens of producers emerging on to the scene making some pretty fine wine at interesting prices. The early part of this decade then saw a commercial boom for the Languedoc-Roussillon in Ontario, with many of the top names finding their way to the LCBO’s shelves (Ontario’s government-run alcohol distribution monopoly). The excitement has since waned and the selection somewhat dwindled, but I still consider the Languedoc-Roussillon as a source of characterful and flavourful wines at reasonable prices.
Tasted Wines
Unfortunately, the selection offered here failed to excite. But I can appreciate the difficulty of selecting specific wines to use in generic promotional campaigns. So while the reviews and scores here are not glowing, don’t take this as representative of the region. I know there are better wines out there.
Sieur d’Arques, AOC/AOP Crémant de Limoux, Grande Cuvée 1531
Considered one of the oldest sparkling wines in the world, Crémant de Limoux is made using the traditional method in the cooler upper Valley around the town of Limoux in the northern Languedoc. Sieur d’Arques is one of the leading cooperatives in the region. This is made from Chardonnay and the local Mauzac variety. The wine is light and crisp, quite dry, with simple flavours ranging from green apple to citrus. Of modest depth and complexity overall, this is for basic patio sipping without too much reflexion or contemplation. 85 pts
Cigalus, VDP/IGP Pays d’OC, cuvée 2008, Gérard Bertrand
Chardonnay, viognier and sauvignon blanc are cultivated using biodynamic principals by leading southern French vigneron/négociant Gérard Bertrand, and aged in small oak for 6-8 months. The nose is rather simple but very pretty, led by the peach and apricot notes of viognier and the grassy-citrus side of sauvignon blanc. Wood is well integrated. The palate is mid-weight, balanced, with decent acid and generous alcohol, leading into a short finish. Correct, but at $25 euros retail (from one internet retailer), a little overpriced for the depth and complexity offered. 87 pts
Fruité Catalan, AOC/AOP Côtes du Roussillon
The south of France, particularly Provence, is well known for rosé production; the Roussillon less so, but no less capable with its similar Mediterranean climate and well-adapted grapes. But this example is made in a clearly commercial mold, with plenty of up front candyfloss, banana and strawberry. On the palate it’s simple and straightforward with a pinch of residual sugar and a bitter finish. All in all, this is basic, commercial wine, and it’s probably commercially successful, but it represents everything that I hate about rosé. It seems a purely market-driven afterthought of more serious red wine making. I’d love to see some characterful, dry, food versatile rosés hit our market as opposed to tarted-up commercial plonk. 82 pts
Mas de Madame, AOC/AOP Muscat de Frontignan, cuvée
The vins doux naturels of the Languedoc-Roussillon are among the world’s undervalued wines, over-delivering pleasure for a very reasonable price. The nose is absolutely classic, effusively perfumed Muscat, full of orange blossom, fresh grapes, rose water and honey, while the palate is sweet but not excessively cloying, with a lingering, Turkish Delight-flavoured finish. VDNs are hardly popular wines these days, but they deserve to be better known for the sheer pleasure they deliver. Try as an afternoon aperitif, or with savoury, intensely flavoured pakoras, lightly-curried chicken salad, blue cheese or not-too-sweet apricot or peach tart. 88 pts
Note to Ontario residents: click here to find the top-rated Languedoc-Roussillon wines at your local LCBO store.
Filed under: Events, News, Wine, John Szabo, Languedoc-Roussillon, South of France, Sud de France, Worldwide synchronized tasting
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