WineAlign

David Lawrason

Chile’s Quake Delivers A Blow to Wine Industry

Minutes after the roar of the Sid the Kid’s goal on Sunday night, my Twitter feed brought the first inklings of a very different vibe in faraway Chile.

There is still much to be determined about the extent of the damage to the wineries but with the epicentre in the Maule region, not far seismically from Colchagua and Rapel, this quake struck Chile’s wine heartland, and there are reports of damage as far away as Casablanca over 300 kms to the north.

Most reports so far are focused on loss of a sea of wine, not loss of life. The massive 8.8 quake struck in the wee hours so most winery sites would not have a lot of people working, unless on overnight crushing shifts.  The harvest is underway and there would have been lots of fermenting juice in the tanks.  But I have heard no reports of deaths or injuries.  What’s more uncertain is the extent of structural damage within the wineries and whether they can even process the harvest of 2010.  Concha Y Toro, the country’s largest winery, has suspended production while it assesses damage at its various properties.

As I was already emotional over the Olympics on Sunday it didn’t take long to feel a deep, throat swelling sadness for Chile, and in particular for the many kind wine folks I met there just six weeks ago.  I had travelled with nine other Canadian wine writers to judge the Wines of Chile Awards, then spent another week travelling in the Maipo, Colchagua, Casablanca and Aconcagua wine regions.  Everywhere we were treated so very well; in fact in all my travels I can’t think of another country where the people are so genuinely friendly and warm, and so quietly proud of their booming wine industry.

This industry was on a roll until this happened – full of enthusiasm, fully grasping the science and technology of wine quality, and anxious to break free of its image as a poor cousin source of cheap, fruity wine.  Indeed corralling, layering and sculpting all that lush fruit energy is the greatest challenge facing the winemakers, and most are succeeding. From $10 to $100 most modern Chilean wines are good value indeed.

Ironically, Vintages  release on March 6 features Chilean wines.  A heartfelt toast with a glass of carmenere, cabernet or syrah is perhaps the best and only real way we can show some support.

One of the best examples at Vintages is the Tabali 2008 Merlot, a wine of charm, suppleness and surprising depth for $15.  Errazuriz 2008 Sauvignon Blanc is pristine and delicious, a shining example of the huge strides being made with sauvignon blanc in Chile. These are among my half dozen favourites of the release, joining a brilliant band of aromatic white wines from Europe, plus a great riesling buy from Henry of Pelham in Niagara. All  have a kind of “spring-is-in-the-air” quality.

-  David Lawrason, VP of Wine at WineAlign

Click here to see ranked lists and reviews of over 100 wines in this release.

ERRÁZURIZ 2008 SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC
Casablanca Valley, Chile, $14.95  90pts

HENRY OF PELHAM 2008 OFF-DRY RESERVE RIESLING
Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula  $15.95  90pts

ANDRÉ BLANCK ET SES FILS 2008 CLOS SCHWENDI PINOT GRIS, Alsace, France
$19.95  91pts

HENRI DE RICHEMER 2008 MUSCAT SEC
Côtes de Thau, France
$12.95  89pts