“Vintages December 5th release features three excellent 90pt-plus Penfolds reds from Australia – the heart of their Bin Number batting order: Bin 28 2006 Kalimna Shiraz, Bin 389 2006 Cabernet/Shiraz, and St. Henri 2005 Shiraz. Others have been released by Vintages in recent weeks and reviews can be found at WineAlign by simply searching Penfolds. As well, the astounding 98 pt Grange 2004 is sold out in the Classics Catalogue at $499 – a wine that could make or break Christmas single-handedly. I have always admired the Penfolds reds for the bridge they build back to Europe. They are Australian to their bootstraps with a confident swagger – big, broad-shouldered and richly fruited. Yet they have counterpointing composure, restraint and sophistication too. What’s most interesting is that this feel for the wines has been passed down through four winemakers since founder Max Schubert returned from the Rhone to make Grange Hermitage in South Australia in the early 50s. Since 2002 they have been shepherded by Peter Gago, who has the same openness and depth as his wines. He speaks with poise, precision and enthusiasm. You could listen to him all day – a born teacher. Indeed he was a teacher until he left the classroom at age 29 and followed wine. It’s hard perhaps to grasp the idea that a person or ideal can translate to a liquid in a bottle but I encounter it time and again, and urge you to grab these Bin wines to experience it yourself over the holidays. Decant them, give them breathing room, pour them into a big, fine wine glass, and let them move you – for hours.
Elsewhere, this is simply a huge release with a broad, shotgun selection designed to churn volume in the pre-Christmas rush. Some are pigeon-holed by Vintages as Holiday Dinner selections, but there is nothing about the selection per se that makes them better food wines. It’s all about a certain level of class, price and availability. Unfortunately I was not able to personally taste about half the wines for this release however John Szabo’s reviews for the entire release can be found in WineAlign’s Vintages Preview section. I did get to taste the sparklers in the release and have included three top picks in Dave’s Faves.”
- David Lawrason, VP of Wine at WineAlign
Click here to see ranked lists and reviews of over 100 wines in this release.
Dave’s Faves
Sparkling
Georges Gardet Cuvée Saint Flavy Brut Champagne, France $39.95 92pts
Roederer Estate Brut Sparkling Wine, Anderson Valley, California, $28.95 91pts
No. 1 Family Estate Cuvée No. 1 Blanc De Blancs, Marlborough, New Zealand, $36.95 91pts
Reds
Herencia Remondo 2006 La Montesa, Rioja, Spain
$19.95 90pts
Domaine De La Madone Le Perréon 2008 Beaujolais-Villages, Beaujolais,
$14.95 89pts
Fairview 2008 The Goatfather, Coastal Region, South Africa, $13.95 89pts
Filed under: News, "Top Picks", "Top Values", David Lawrason, Vintages
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